Helmut Lang’s SS22 Collection Takes the Suit Out of the Office and Into the Air

Through its unisex Spring/Summer 2022 collection, Helmut Lang explores themes of familiarity and newness through a lineup of boldly colored nautical-inspired garments.

While the label defines itself as “designerless,” or without a sole creative lead, it collaborated with the South Korea-born, Colorado-based artist Maia Ruth Lee for this season’s collection. Taking notes from time spent in airports and, in particular, the materials used to package and transport luggage, Lee utilized tarp-like fabrics, rope and mesh among other materials to create pieces that present themselves as wrapped or bound.

Details featured throughout the collection include raw edges, knotting, layers and a technique called trapunto stitching that creates a raised surface in the fabric.

The collection notes pose a timely question for the pandemic era: “If I no longer go to an office, why do I need a suit?” In its answer, Helmut Lang says a suit — albeit a deviation from the expected variety — conveys class and effort, but that doesn’t mean it has to be boring or uncomfortable. In its first ensemble, the label brings a deep V-cut to an all-black suit, and in the succeeding pieces, serves some of the best looks in its androgynous recreations of the suit, whether as a pantsuit partially composed of mesh or a fire-engine-red flared jumpsuit.

View the entire collection from Helmut Lang in the gallery above.

In other fashion news, Frank Ocean’s luxury brand Homer teamed up with Prada for a limited-edition collection.
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