The instant icons that will influence how women dress for years… As Phoebe Philo launches the most anticipated fashion label in decades

As WhatsApp messages go, it was a short one. ‘Finally!’ it said. But the five recipients — my most stylish friends — knew immediately what it meant.

Yesterday afternoon, after a near-six-year absence, one of fashion’s biggest talents, British designer Phoebe Philo, launched the most anticipated label for decades.

Some fans had started to doubt whether the collection would arrive at all. Most had been refreshing their browsers since the early hours. Finally, it dropped on the website phoebephilo.com just after 3pm. Fashionably late, you might say.

Within minutes, the consensus was that it had been worth the wait. Titled A1, the 150-piece collection was both directional yet reassuringly predictable. Directional in that it presented some new ideas; predictable in that it revisited the key items on which Philo has built her stellar reputation.

Here were the funnel-necked jumpers we had so been missing, in black, cream, charcoal, navy and a slew of other neutrals. There, too, were tailored trousers, slouchy jeans, oversized coats and classic blazers. Everything was logo-free, the quintessence of quiet luxury — albeit a more off-kilter version.

Titled A1, the 150-piece collection was both directional yet reassuringly predictable

Within hours, several key pieces had sold out, including many of the accessories. A chain necklace in gold (£620) and a square ‘badge’ ring in silver (£420) were among the first to go, followed by a pair of oversized ‘Bombe’ sunglasses in brown (£540).

Shoes sold out within half an hour, including a heeled black leather loafer (£900). The fastest selling clothes included a black smock (£800), cargo trousers (£1,700) and a high-necked cream jumper (£1,500).

More expensive items, such as the XL Cabas bag (£6,200) were still available. Though for how much longer is anyone’s guess.

To those with little interest in fashion, the esteem in which Philo is held will be baffling. At a time when most creative directors at luxury brands are male, the fact she is a woman — a 50-year-old, married mother-of-three — designing for women is undoubtedly a large part of her appeal.

But her gender isn’t the entire reason. In person, Philo looks unassuming. But her appearance belies a rare Midas touch.

While most designers have as many misses as hits, between 2001 and 2018, Philo churned out bestsellers with relentless success, first as creative director of Chloe, where she succeeded Stella McCartney, then at Celine, the tired French brand whose sales she quadrupled.

Though prices ensured that fashion editors and celebrities were Philo’s clientele during her ten-year tenure at Celine, the Phoebe effect was still felt by customers who couldn’t fork out a fortune to buy her clothes, with her catwalk designs kick-starting mass market trends.

Certainly the British High Street was not immune to her allure. In 2014, after an oversized pink coat appeared on the Celine catwalk, a Marks & Spencer version sold out many times over.

Everything was logo-free, the quintessence of quiet luxury — albeit a more off-kilter version

Classic blazers with their own twist were also part Phoebe Philo’s launch collection

Here were the funnel-necked jumpers we had so been missing, in black, cream, charcoal, navy and a slew of other neutrals

Shoes sold out within half an hour, including a heeled black leather loafer which cost £900

Though prices ensured that fashion editors and celebrities were Philo’s clientele during her ten-year tenure at Celine, the Phoebe effect was still felt by customers who couldn’t fork out a fortune to buy her clothes

There, too, were tailored trousers, slouchy jeans, oversized coats and classic blazers

Philo was also behind the trend for funnel-neck jumpers, slip dresses and skinny-rib knitwear, as well as women’s near-unilateral ditching of high heels in favour of comfy trainers — which she herself always wore to take her bows at the end of her Celine shows.

Her friends would say that Philo’s stylishness is innate, the product of her upbringing in an arty, bohemian family. Born in the North-West London suburb of Harrow on the Hill, she was raised by her mother, Mary, a graphic designer, and her father Richard, a surveyor.

Both her parents and her younger sister, Frankie, would frequently attend her shows, with fashion editors swooning at how insouciantly stylish they all looked.

After a ‘pony-mad’ childhood, Philo won a place to study art and design at the prestigious Central Saint Martins. Here, she forged a friendship with Stella McCartney. When McCartney was appointed creative director of French fashion house Chloe in 1997, it was Philo she brought to Paris with her as her close collaborator.

Both shared the same irreverent approach to fashion. In the stuffy world of French luxury fashion, their maverick approach was a breath of fresh air.

Yesterday afternoon, after a near-six-year absence, one of fashion’s biggest talents, British designer Phoebe Philo, launched the most anticipated label for decades

Here were the funnel-necked jumpers we had so been missing, in black, cream, charcoal, navy and a slew of other neutrals

Within hours, several key pieces had sold out, including many of the accessories (Pictured: A chain necklace in gold for £620)

LVMH is bankrolling her eponymous collection, even if, cannily, Philo owns the majority stake, leaving her in control

More expensive items, such as the XL Cabas bag (£6,200) were still available

At Celine, Philo proved herself as something of a feminist trailblazer, asking the brand’s owners, LVMH, to allow her to have her headquarters in London so that she could be with her young family.

It was an audacious move that proved how much confidence LVMH had in their signing. Indeed, LVMH is bankrolling her eponymous collection, even if, cannily, Philo owns the majority stake, leaving her in control.

And today it is clear that her legendary perfectionism has paid off, even if some of the items on sale may have left those less au fait with high fashion scratching their heads.

A £3,500 pair of black trousers, hand-combed and shredded to look like feathers, are among the more directional items.

But there is also enough to satisfy Philo-philes (like Swifties, her fans go by a collective name). Highlights include an oversized black coat (£3,500), a roomy cream shirt (£900) and a slew of deftly tailored trousers.

Was it groundbreaking? No. But nor would her fans want it to be. For them, Philo is a delicious secret, the clothes whispering their status. They make women feel like the best version of themselves, ready for whatever life may throw at them.

Provided they can afford the dry cleaning bill, of course.

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